Visit Matera – A Gem of Southern Italy
Matera is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world, with a history that dates back over 10,000 years. This ancient city is located in the region of Basilicata in southern Italy and is known for its unique ancient cave dwellings, known as “Sassi”, which are carved into the limestone cliffs of the Gravina Gorge.
The first human settlements in Matera date back to the Paleolithic era, when the city was inhabited by indigenous peoples. In the Bronze Age, Matera was a flourishing settlement of the ancient Peucetians, an Italic tribe. The city was later conquered by the Greeks and then by the Romans in the 3rd Century BC, who built aqueducts, roads, and buildings in Matera. It remained a part of the Roman Empire until its fall. The Byzantine-era Basilica di San Giovanni Battista was built by Justinian during this period, which is still standing today. During the Middle Ages, Matera had been fought over by regional rulers before finally becoming part of the Kingdom of Naples in the 14th century.
During the Middle Ages, Matera became a prosperous city under the rule of the Byzantine Empire and later the Lombards. The city’s iconic cave dwellings, which were originally inhabited by peasants and livestock, were expanded and transformed into homes, churches, and workshops.
In the 17th and 18th centuries, Matera experienced a period of decline and poverty, with its population living in overcrowded and unsanitary conditions in the Sassi. The city’s reputation for poor health, poverty and squalor led to the government forcibly relocating thousands of residents to new housing developments from 1952-1968, leading to the abandonment of the historic Sassi. Clean-up began.
Matera’s unique historical and architectural significance began to be recognized, leading to the restoration and preservation of the Sassi. In 1993, Matera was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its well-preserved ancient cave dwellings, its amazing cistern, and its unique cultural landscape.
Today, this Italian city is a popular tourist destination known for its stunning architecture, rich history, and cultural heritage. As one of the oldest cities in Europe, Matera has been used as a filming location for several movies, including Mel Gibson’s “The Passion of the Christ”. ‘Wonder woman’ and The James Bond film “Quantum of Solace”. was also filmed in Matera. Matera was named the European Capital of Culture in 2019, further solidifying its status as a must-visit destination in Italy.
Best Things to do in Matera
1. Explore the Sassi di Matera:
This ancient cave-dwelling district is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of Matera’s main attractions. Guided walking tours are a great way to discover the city’s history and hidden gems. These walking tours cover serious ground and many up and down stairs. It can be challenging- be sure to wear good athletic shoes and bring water. If you are not up for this physically- there are Tuk-tuk tours.
There are actually 2 main Sassi areas divided by a gorge. Sasso Barisano is the town, and where most tours go- while Sasso Caveoso were the caves used by shepherds to shelter and pray. There is also the flatter surrounding area at the top of Sasso Barisano referred to as the ‘Piano’ because, by comparison, the area is flat.
Sasso Barisano
The Sasso Barisano is where most tourists start. It is clean and beautiful today- with a storied past. Some of the cave homes date back before the Egyptian pyramids. The Italian government bought 80% of the caves homes starting in 1952, and moved the residents into apartments where they had heat, electricity, and plumbing. Today those historic homes have the modern amenities, but have been transformed into shops, restaurants, spas and hotels.
Sasso Caveoso
If you can hike- I wouldn’t miss this part. Gorgeous with wild flowers, wild dill and thyme. Traverse trails, and cliffs and explore caves used by shepherds to shelter and pray. The use of these caves probably predates the Egyptian pyramids, and the Rupestrian (Rock) churches with Frescos can be dated before 1100.
The Piano
The ‘Piano’ is the flat part of the city developed to hide the Sasso Barisano because the ancient area had become a ghetto. The rich, noble and elite populated this area. Today you will find beautiful buildings, shops, stores, and restaurants.
2. Visit the Pontifical Cathedral Basilica of Maria Santissima della Bruna and Sant’ Eustachio in Matera and the ‘Wheel of Fortune’
This Cathedral is a magical example of Apulian Romanesque architecture. Built in the 13th Century, the Cathedral is dedicated to the Madonna della Bruna and Saint Eustachio-patrons of Matera.
The facade is adorned with a 16 ray rose window. Look closely at the decorations surrounding that window. This is the Italian version of ‘Wheel of Fortune’- with the Arch Angel Michael at the top, and 2 workers spinning the wheel of your fortune. Imagine how a person’s luck can change with a spin of this wheel….
3. Visit the Matera Cathedral:
This stunning Romanesque cathedral is a must-see for its beautiful architecture and history. The Matera Cathedral, also called Cattedrale di Santa Maria della Bruna, is the Duomo of Matera. This Roman Catholic church is dedicated to the Virgin Mary. Completed in 1270, it sits on the highest point of Matera. From throughout the city, you will see the bell tower of the cathedral from all points of the city of Matera.
4. Visit the Rock Church:
Matera is filled with churches but the Church of Saint Mary of Idris, also called the Rock Church and Chiesa Rupestre di Santa Maria di Idris (in Italian) is one of the most unique. The Madonna and Child altar dates back to the 17th century, and the fresco above the altar that dates back to the 12th century. A beautiful church and panoramic views-
5. 
Visit Other Rock Churches
There are about 160 Rock churches in Matera- some large, and some are small frescoed chapels.
6. Visit one of the restored cave dwellings
Visit Casa Grotta di Vico Solitario, Casa Grotta Antica Matera, Casa Grotta Nei Sassi, Casa Grotta Del Casal Nuovo, or Casa Noha- These traditional cave dwellings have been restored to show visitors what life was like in Matera centuries ago. The caves were harsh with animals and children sleeping in the same cave.
7. Hike Murgia Materana:
(Parco della Murgia Materana) This national park offers hiking trails, picnic spots, and stunning views of the surrounding landscape. There are 2 great ways to hike an explore. The first- and my favorite, is to drive to the Caveoso side of the National Park. They have an information center, and plenty of parking. There is also parking near the end. Wear good athletic or hiking shoes, and be sure to bring water and a little food. We hiked for over 2 1/2 hours and only hit a fraction of the sites. Be sure to only hike in daylight hours. The area has wild boar that come out at night!
There is also a trailhead, is on Via Madonna delle Virtu, next to the large parking lot. The trailhead is marked on Google Maps as Ponte Tibetano della Gravina, and the GPS coordinates: 40°39’58.1″N 16°36’48.5″E From this coordinate it is a downhill walk on a rocky trail to the bottom of the ravine (a 5 to 10-minute walk). Cross the river on the suspension bridge. Climb the narrow trail up the hillside, making a few switchbacks. The higher you go, the better the view of Sassi di Matera on the opposite side. There will be offshoots to the caves. Be aware that the climb down to the bridge is steep and slippery. Be careful
Take a guided tour through the Rupestrian Churches. Enjoy exploring the ancient caves and churches in the old town, taking photos, and enjoying those awesome vistas of the City of Caves.
8. Rock Complex of Madonna della Virtu:
A rock church that dates back to the 12th century. In the 20th century, the church was restored and turned into an art gallery that displays 200 works of art by Salvador Dalí. As you walk through the various cave rooms, you will see Dali’s sculptures and the ancient frescoes on the cave church walls. There are also statues outside with backdrop views from Matera.
9. Ancient Cistern- Palombaro Lungo:
Go underground for a different look at Matera history. In the 16th century this large cavern was excavated and then enlarged over the centuries with a capacity to hold 5 million liters of water. Journey into the cavern on a series of staircases and metal boardwalks-beautiful. Worth visiting-
10. The Moom Olive Oil Museum:
The MOOM, Matera Olive Oil Museum, is located in the Sassi of Matera, in Vico 1° Casalnuovo. Tour the underground olive oil mill and discover the lifestyle and ancient tradition of those who milled the oil. Make a reseevation for this 20 minute tour. The Moom website
11. The Musma:
Museo della Scultura Contemporanea Matera, is a small museum dedicated to sculptures. The museum features Italian and foreign sculptures from the 1800’s to current day. This museum is located inside of Palazzo Pomarici, a 17th century palace.
12. Church of Purgatory:
One of Matera’s more unique churches, the Church of Purgatory, also called Chiesa del Purgatorio, was completed in 1747 as a place for people to pray for the souls trapped in purgatory. The exterior of the church is decorated with skeletons and skulls adorn the wooden doors and stonework. Inside, you will see more skulls and skeletons plus paintings that portray souls trapped in purgatory.
What is a Purgatory Church?
The Purgatory Catholic Church was a place where you prayed for the people in limbo or Purgatory (not quite in Heaven or Hell). The Church has moved away from emphasizing limbo, focusing instead on God’s universal salvation.
Notice this interesting door. The top row of skeletons represents a Judge, a Bishop, a King, and a Pope. The second row features skeletons that are all the same. The Church is sharing the message that in life you may be important- but everyone is the same/equal in heaven.
13. Go shopping
Whether you are in Sasso Barisano, or up in the ‘Piano’- there is alot of interesting shopping.
Get to Matera, and Check out the natural Caves hotels, Churches, and restaurants- enjoy the history and culture.
Restaurant picks
Tierra Osteria Contemporanea
Contemporary Italian cuisine- Imaginative – delicious. A couple of balcony tables with an outstanding view- reserve early.
Annina 1937
More traditional Apulian cuisine in a beautiful cave restaurant.
Restaurant San Biagio
Traditional Apulian Menu with a balcony overlooking the Sassi
Interested in staying in a Natural Cave Boutique Hotel?
1. Sextantio Le Grotte della Civita: This luxury cave hotel is situated in the historic Sassi di Matera, offering a unique experience of staying in ancient caves that have been beautifully restored with modern amenities. Each cave room is tastefully decorated with a blend of traditional and contemporary furnishings, creating a cozy and intimate atmosphere. Guests can enjoy stunning views of the Sassi and surrounding landscape from the hotel’s terrace, as well as sample delicious local cuisine at the on-site restaurant.
2. Caveoso Hotel: Located in the heart of the Sassi di Matera, Caveoso Hotel offers comfortable accommodations in a historic setting. The hotel features cave rooms that have been meticulously restored to preserve their original charm while providing modern conveniences. Guests can unwind in the hotel’s courtyard or enjoy panoramic views of Matera from the rooftop terrace.
3. Sant’Angelo Luxury Resort: Nestled in the picturesque Matera countryside, Sant’Angelo Luxury Resort offers guests a tranquil escape in a stunning cave setting. The hotel’s stylish cave rooms are elegantly decorated with luxurious furnishings and modern amenities. Guests can relax by the outdoor pool, indulge in a spa treatment, or savor gourmet cuisine at the hotel’s fine dining restaurant. With its peaceful surroundings and attentive service, Sant’Angelo Luxury Resort is the perfect destination for a restful and rejuvenating getaway.
Stay in a Palazzo on the top edge of the Sassi
The Palazzo Viceconte is housed in one of the original noble Palaces of the XVI-XVIII centuries- an authentic heritage hotel with breathtaking views of the Sassi, the Gravina, and the surrounding Murgia park. Beautiful rooms, breakfast- and shockingly- some parking!
Enjoy Italy at home
Lemon Mutha Pucker, Limoncello – Such a beautiful Italian tradition. Many will enjoy it as an after-dinner- but it is a treat at any time- especially on a warm and sunny day- Delizioso!